The off-trade is suffering along with the rest of the licensed industry, but like the pubs which seem to have got their offer right, there are little gems of outlets around which are doing remarkably well, writes Alastair Gilmour

Troubled off-license chain Oddbins has confirmed details of a rescue plan that will see a third of its stores close. The retailer wants its landlords to agree to an arrangement that would see 39 outlets, plus its head office in London, close, resulting in the loss of 120 jobs. It is also asking for rent on the remaining 89 to be cut by 30% and paid monthly rather than in quarterly instalments. Off-licenses are becoming an endangered species due to the growing power of supermarkets, which now account for 70% of UK wine sales.

As for beer, even Oddbins can’t compete on price with supermarkets – spotted recently was an offer on cans of Stella Artois “pour le fridge”. Ten, 440ml cans were priced at £9, which works out at £2.05 a litre (£1.17 a pint). Consider that a pint of mid-strength beer will now cost around the £3 mark, is it any wonder the less-discerning drinker will grab the cans, plump up the cushions on the settee and gaze at the telly instead of socializing in the pub.

However, small, specialist retailers are managing to survive and in many cases, prosper. Perhaps it’s because they can move faster as trends develop – create them even – or is it because they actually listen to what their customers want? The reality is that their customers are those who still want to go to the pub but on occasion, enjoy a bottle of something special at home – it’s not an alternative.

Tony Rehill of Rehill’s Specialist Food and Wine Merchants is a man who, when he travels anywhere, samples the local food, drink and culture. Although he doesn’t get as much holiday opportunity as he would like, he recognises that customers in the family-run store in Jesmond, Newcastle, are of a similar outlook.

“Anything new in beer, I’ll buy it,” he says. “Whether that’s for myself in a pub, for the shop, or anywhere. What we’re doing with our beers is offering a good, interesting choice in small quantities. If you want big volumes you go to Tesco.”

Rehill’s has an astonishing range of beers from all over the world, with a strong presence of Belgian specialities and a commendable line-up of British – particularly local – ales. It’s a veritable Aladdin’s Cave.

“We have a real mix of customers,” says Tony. “They’re from all walks of life and we have lots of students around here who are regulars too. A lot of customers ask if we’ve got such-and-such a beer in and if we haven’t we’ll try and get it for them.”

It’s a similar attitude – and undoubted enthusiasm – at Coppers 8til8 store in Brunton Park, Gosforth, to the north of Newcastle city centre. Brothers Arron and Andrew Cossey light up when beer is the topic of conversation and the pair are gradually giving over more of the convenience store to some of the most interesting examples of bottled beers you’ll find anywhere.

Like Tony Rehill, the passion was kindled by a curiosity about food and drink and a sense of adventure.

“I started going to farmers markets,” says Andrew. “I got to mix with all different people and started to get their produce into the shop. The local stuff flies out, both the food and the beer.

“We get people in who are like us – passionate about their beer. It’s not unusual for someone to spend £30 or £40 on beer – one customer came in on Sunday night and spent £80.”

While the enthusiastic brothers try and concentrate on local produce – driven by consumer demand – their range of Czech, Belgian and American beers are a terrific surprise and a credit to ingenuity.

“I’m trying to gen up a bit on them,” says Arron. “It’s knowledge.”

A rear storeroom has been earmarked for expansion with tasting sessions and regular events in the pipeline.

“At first we took out the DVD section and put shelves in for beer,” says Andrew. “It just snowballed from there. We’ve got something for everybody – one guy bought two bottles of BrewDog Sink The Bismark!, one of the strongest beers in the world. They’re £40 each.

“And, do you know, since we started doing this last year, we’ve only sold four bottles of Newcastle Brown Ale.”

If this shows any thing, it’s that people will continue to seek out quality, regardless of economic turmoil. They also want to spend their money wisely, so a small dose of what Arron Cossey calls “knowledge” which gains customer confidence never comes amiss either.